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Food in Bangkok, Thailand

Photograph: Edward Freeman/Getty

Authentic market food
Or Tor Kor (OTK) market (Thanon Kamphaengphet, Chatuchak Park underground) is slightly gentrified but it hasn't lost its edge, it's clean and damn gorgeous. There is stall upon stall of delicious desserts, tasty sausages, delectable soups and noodles; it's hard not to eat well. I like the slightly fermented pork sausage, sai grop - its name means crispy intestine, but that belies how sumptuous it is, cooked slowly over charcoal. There are two stalls in particular that do a good job of it; slightly sour with garlic, ginger, chillies and green papaya. I couldn't pinpoint exactly where they are, you'll have to explore and try yourself - not such a hard task. The fish dumpling soup at the Suan Lum night market makes you nod your head with pleasure.

Breakfast time
Thais love tea. They have their tea with everything, even with their coffee; if you ask for water, you'll get tea, just to prove it's been boiled. But have coffee with deep-fried Chinese bread at an early morning market. It tastes of chicory and chocolate powder; it's completely wrong - commercial, chemical and wonderful.

Street credibility
Walk through Bangkok and it's clear that work is just something that gets in the way of eating. The most accessible food in Bangkok is street food. Food stalls outnumber pedestrians and streets can seem not so much thoroughfares as corridors lined with places to buy food. The markets can be a bit rough - rude, abrupt and daunting - but you will smack your lips in pleasure when trying the robust dishes.

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